Written by Menco Nieuwenhuis, Creative Director New Tailor
First of all, let me thank Ajanaku.com for asking me to contribute to one of the best style platforms in Holland, Europe and probably in the world.
Working as a ‘creative director’ for the Dutch bespoke specialists ‘NEW TAILOR‘, based in both Amsterdam and Utrecht, I was asked to visit last week’s Pitti Uomo in Firenze. Pitti is being held twice a year (January and July) and is regarded as the most important event in high-end global menswear.
The earliest Pitti in the year hosts a great variety of luxury brands that can both be categorized in ‘casual’ and ‘dressed’. Brands vary from relatively available like Van Gils and Gant to the top of the top like Kiton and Luciano Barbera.
My visit, together with three colleagues, was aimed at getting food for thought and translating the shown images of all the brands for the Autumn and Winter 2013/2014 look in our stores. And I got a lot to eat.
First of all, just the simple being at Pitti is inspiring. As the whole sartorial world NEEDS to visit it’s a get-together of the best dressed guys in the world. Of course – happens with every fashion event nowadays – there’s room for the occasional clown trying his best to get noticed by the big bloggers including Scott of The Sartorialist. The simple fact that the pictures of these overdressed and overkilled guys travel the world so fast through all the TUMBLRs and Instagrams truly doesn’t do any good to the actual image of Pitti Uomo.
This year the Kings of Pitti were Emperors, as Japanese seemed to fill up at least 50% of the Fortezza da Basso. Being a lot smaller than all the Europeans visiting, they formed an amazing group of very well dressed and groomed gentlemen, mostly wearing well cut greyish suits and spic-and-spam shoes.
The overall image of what we can expect as from coming September is quite seriously ‘British’. Over the last decade the Italians have slowly but surely embraced the more traditional look from the European islands. Next season that shows in the use of lots and lots of Donegal Tweeds for jackets and checked flannels for trousers, where the people behind Pantaloni Torino once again dared to stand out.
There seemed to be general consensus as it comes to the colours that will pop up in menswear’s Autumn and Winter. A major variety in greens, a lot of burgundy shades, dark yellows and – of course – plenty space for grey. Maybe the presence of Hardy Amies of Savile Row, London, at one of the most popular places in the event said it all: Britannia rules the waves!